|Tonight, we are pouring three brilliant wines from the center section of the France’s Loire valley, all grown not far from the town of Tour. We’re starting with a wine from a singular young grower, Stéphane Cossais, who was, before his untimely death, well on his way to becoming one of the most electrifying practitioners of chenin blanc of his generation. This is a dry, organically farmed wine from a single vineyard, and it spent two years in large, older barrels. The wine was meant to age, and with eight years in the bottle, it’s just now ready to drink. We’re following this with two red wines: one, an old vine côt (AKA malbec), with some vines as old as 120 years, a little leathery, and the other, a wine made from a magical blend of côt, gamay, and the secret ingredient of medieval France, pineau d’aunis.
Stéphane Cossais “Le Volagré” Montlouis-sur-Loire 2008