|Ricardo Zanotto is an animated and engaged Italian winemaker, now making any number of different wines, some more straightforward, others more on the spectrum. He’s mostly a maker of dry sparkling wines, although none are named Prosecco, the traditional sparkling wine of his region—though he could if he wanted to, produce a wine labeled as such. Instead, he tows a different line and makes the sort of yeasty, rustic sparkling wines that existed before the industrial era. Tonight, we’re starting out with two of his wines, one is a wine made from glera, the primary grape that goes into all Prosecco, but here fermented as a dry, wine, texturally chalky, but entirely without bubbles; the other, a dry sparkling red, a little funky, is made primarily from marzemino. We’re finishing the tasting with a delicately peppery grignolino, a Piemontese grape seemingly born for making gluggy, everyday red wines that appreciate being served cool. And, if you dare, a fantastic by-the-glass wine from Laura di Collobiano, a meticulous farmer of beautifully crafted, non-douchey Tuscan wine, biodynamically grown and mostly sangiovese, that, hell, I guess I could call a Tuscan, but I just can’t, as that name typically implies a ripe, fruit-forward oak bomb wine, whereas this wine is lean, earthy.
Zanotto “Fermo” Vino da Tavola NV