Friday 6/23
Taste biodynamic + orange wines
With Wine Wizard Greg Borden
6-8 PM no reservations needed $12

Tonight: taste biodynamic, orange, and low-sulfite wines
with Wizard Greg Borden
Friday 6/23 between 6-8 PM no reservations required
$12 plus 10 percent of any of the wines tasted

Tonight, we have wine wizard Greg Borden of Chambers & Chambers in the shop to pour us a selection of the wines he distributes, some of which are farmed according to the principles of biodynamics, including a Demeter-certified wine from the Russian River Valley, as well as two skin-contact, orange wines, one from the Rhône, the other from the central coast of California. Biodynamic farms operate according to principles outlined in a series of lectures delivered in the 20s by Austrian educational theorist and spiritual teacher, Rudolf Steiner. Although Steiner never touched a garden shovel in his entire life, he forged a new way of looking at farming that was at once very old, synthesizing centuries of pagan farming rituals, customs and beliefs, and compellingly modern. Rather than spray synthetic pesticides and herbicides to control nature, a biodynamic farmer attempts to gently prod Mother Nature to do the right thing, relying instead on various numbered preparations that farmers apply according to the celestial calendars. The most infamous preparation is preparation 500, which is essentially cow shit from a lactating cow, fermented inside of a buried cow horn for a few months. To process the preparation, farmers unearth the cow horn, remove the fermented poop, dilute it with water, and then stir vigorously, creating a vortex, first clockwise and then counterclockwise to create a spray that enriches the soil bacteria and fungi so important for healthy plants. Now to some, this is an absurdly archaic practice, entirely unsupported by science, and yet it is a practice to which not a few of the growers we work with cleave. Me? I do not invite others to inspect and laugh at the automatisms and the half-submerged beliefs that I cherish. If a wine is delicious, I really could care less that the vigneron who makes blasts traditional Corsican polyphonic tunes to their vines or chooses to harvest their grapes under the moonlight in the nude, save for their work boots and tinfoil cap. I’m agnostic about biodynamics as I am all too aware how easy it is for the armchair vigneron to opine and laugh about practices with which he or she has no direct contact or the beliefs and practices that may seem absurd, and yet other folks take quite seriously.

Clos de Trias Blanc Côtes du Ventoux 2014
Uliz Saint Romain 2014
Giornata Falanghina Paso Robles 2016
Porter Bass Chardonnay Russian River 2014
Clos de Trias Rouge Côtes du Ventoux 2011
Uliz mondeuse Savoie 2013

 

 

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