Friday, April 7

Los Angeles Natural Wine
On the rear label of one our wines tonight, the following epistle, in 8 pt type:

“We are simply modest size wine artisans. Sorry, but we don’t follow the market, we produce wines that we like, wines from our culture. They are what they are and not what you want them to be.”

This is a statement that might be made about all the wines we’re pouring this evening. All are wines that are what they are, made from unique, regional grape varieties that were cultivated for centuries because they do a specific thing in a specific place. No Cabernet from Tuscany but rather cesanese from the volcanic terroir of Lazio, where the locals have cultivated the grape since antiquity. These are wines that don’t try to please everyone, all the time, but some of the people, some of the time, and some of those people may be you. They are what they are not what you want them to be, wines tease us into coming out to play, to step outside of our air-conditioned nightmares and come to know what’s happening up ahead, on that island just over the horizon, where we don’t speak the language yet and nothing’s been entirely obscured by the invisible hand of the market.

Ricci “Elso” Colli Tortonesi 2007
Alagna Cesanese del Piglio 2015
Boccella Rasott” Irpinia Campi Taurasini 2010
Dettori “Chimbanta” Romangia Rosso 2013
Friday fancy by-the-glass: Ronchi di Cialla Schiopettino di Cialla 1983 ($173/btl, $15 2 oz taste)

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