|On the rear label of one our wines tonight, the following epistle, in 8 pt type:
This is a statement that might be made about all the wines we’re pouring this evening. All are wines that are what they are, made from unique, regional grape varieties that were cultivated for centuries because they do a specific thing in a specific place. No Cabernet from Tuscany but rather cesanese from the volcanic terroir of Lazio, where the locals have cultivated the grape since antiquity. These are wines that don’t try to please everyone, all the time, but some of the people, some of the time, and some of those people may be you. They are what they are not what you want them to be, wines tease us into coming out to play, to step outside of our air-conditioned nightmares and come to know what’s happening up ahead, on that island just over the horizon, where we don’t speak the language yet and nothing’s been entirely obscured by the invisible hand of the market.
Ricci “Elso” Colli Tortonesi 2007