|FRI 3/3: Galicia exotica SAT 3/4: Cru Beaujolais + François Chidaine
SUN 3/5: meet an AMAZING Swiss cidermaker & taste his astonishing Swiss ciders
Tonight: heirloom grapes from Galicia + fancy Friday by-the-glass
Friday 3/3 between 6-8 PM no reservations $12
Spain’s northwest is a treasure chest of captivating heirloom wine grape varieties. Thirty years ago, Galician wine garnered little attention in Spain, much less the rest of the world. Biological disasters (oidium, a problematic fungus, and phylloxera, an invasive and vine-destroying louse) had long conspired against wine growers in the region, as did the political repression of the Franco era and the region’s tradition of ever-fragmenting small hold farming. The best vineyards there are planted on insanely steep hills, but because there was no economy for the wines, many vineyards went feral as the old farmers that once worked them retired and no one else wanted to work the land. Today, growers are reevaluating their armamentarium and have begun to valorize their autochthonous grape varieties, and so we are now witnessing a phoenix-like revival of winemaking in the region that is exciting to watch. Tonight, we’re pouring beautifully-crafted wines made from regional grapes: albariño, mencia, caiño, and doña blanca, all nurtured by growers who are insanely committed to the recovery of their viticultural patrimony.
Pedralonga Albariño Rias Baixas 2015
Laura Lorenzo Ribeira Sacra 2015
Moraima Caíño Rías Baixas 2014
Friday night fancy: Quinta da Muradella “Gorvia” Monterrei 2012 (doña blanca) $6/2oz taste
Saturday, March 4: two tastings!
Cru Beaujolais + the wines of François Chidaine
3-7 PM no reservations
Beaujolais tasting $12
Antoine Sunier Régnié 2015
Perraud Moulin à Vent 2015
Chamonard Morgon 2014
François Chidaine tasting $12
Chidaine Vouvray Pétillant Brut NV
Chidaine “Les Choisille” Montlouis sur Loire 2015
Chidaine “Les Bournais” 2015
Special cider maker Sunday tasting 3/5: taste with Jacques Perritaz
Trippy and profound Swiss hard ciders of Cidrerie du Vulcain
3-6 PM no reservations required $12
Taste the far-out ciders of Cidrerie du Vulcain with cider maker Jacques Perritaz.
|Does biodynamic farming work? I don’t know, but you can find out more about it tonight with Laura di Collobiano of Tenuta Valgiano who will be in the shop from 6-8 pouring three wines from her estate. Laura’s wines are bright, precise, and savory reds made mostly from sangiovese, grown on limestone in the northwest of Tuscany, a bit to the east of Pisa and not far from the town of Lucca. Laura follows the principles of biodynamics and all her wines are Demeter-certified, so expect some dialog tonight on leaf and root days, sensitive crystals, cow horns, dynamizers, cosmic energy, and the like. Why should we care how organically farmed vines are worked and harvested? Personally, I don’t really care if a vigneron harvests grapes in the nude, at midnight, wearing a tinfoil cap whilst chanting polyphonic tunes from antiquity. Bracketing the depredations of chemical-fueled, synthetic-charged viticulture and the reductionism and scientism of modern day technical farming, if nude midnight harvesting works for the practitioners of it, far out, man! It’s not our job as wine drinkers to adjudicate the truth claims made by practitioners of bio-d farming; we do not happily invite others to pass judgment on the automatisms in our own lives. As Emile Durkheim once observed, religion cannot be based on a lie.
Tenuta Valgiano “Palistorti” 2012
Tenuta Valgiano “Palistorti” 2013
Tenuta Valgiano “Valgiano” 2013
|This Saturday please join us and Hungarian wine expertOrshi Kiss from importer Blue Danube for a spectacular tasting of furmint, fabled as the wine of kings, the king of wines. I really dig what furmint can do, and we regularly stock two or three different furmint-based wines, depending on what’s available to us. As you’ll discover on Saturday, furmint is indeed a noble white grape variety with an extensive and storied history of making some of the world’s most deeply profound and long-lived white wines. Furmint’s reputation was originally secured with the remarkable sweet wines of Tokaji, racy wines with mouthwatering acidity made from partially dried grapes—yet all the wines we’re tasting on Saturday are dry, mineral, and completely devoid of sugar. Tokaji is a grape growing region in Hungary’s northeast dominated by volcanic soils, soils which confer upon the wines a savory, sometimes smoky quality that is distinctive and exhilarating. Our first three furmints are from Tokaji, starting with two radically different wines from the brilliant Samuel Tinon. Orshi will pour two very different wines from Tinon: a single vineyard wine from vines that are over 90 years old and grown on ancient volcanic basalt with crumbly, limestone topsoil, and an exceptional and rare auction wine made from younger vines grown on volcanic soil with iron-rich topsoil. The contrast between these two wines is marked, and I think it really underscores how terroir sensitive, nuanced, and nimble a grape furmint can be. Orshi will also pour a very different style of furmint made by another furmint genius, the now retired Fekete Béla. This wine is from Somló in the country’s northwest. It still expresses the grape’s mineral qualities but with a more luscious framing, aged in huge ass old Hungarian oak barrels. To accompany our furmints, we’re serving Peads & Barnetts’s lovely mangalitsa sausage, made from the heirloom Hungarian mangalitsa pig.
Tinon Furmint “Határi” 2015
Tinon Furmint “Szent Tamas” 2014 (Grand Tokaji Auction)
Bodrog Borműhely “Lapis” Furmint 2015
Fekete Béla Furmint 2012
|Are you feeling surly today? I’ll fix your right up! Stop by for a taste of pinot noir tonight and feel a little less so, if even just for a few minutes of blessed, transportive relief. Where will these wines take you? Where do you want to go? We have a fascinating wine made from an archaic biotype of pinot noir, a savory and mineral pinot from the south of Germany, and another from the northernmost outpost of Burgundy. Oh, and we’re opening one bottle, and one bottle only of premier cru Burgundy, which will be available by-the-glass if you’d like to try something special.
Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux Bourgogne Pinot Fin 2014
Salwey “Henkenberg” Großes Gewächs Pinot Noir Baden Germany 2013
Thierry Richoux Irancy 2013
Special by-the-glass: Simon Bize Savigny-les-Beaune “Aux Vergelesss” 1er cru 2013 ($20/glass)
|Today we are pouring new vintages of Brendan Tracey’s Wah-Wah (grolleau & cot) and pineau d’aunis. We’ve turned quite a few folks on to Brendan’s wines over the past couple of years and are happy to once again have a small supply (new vintage!) of his red wines in the shop. In addition, we’re pouring a tasting of dry, ultra-minerally whites made from unique, regional grape varieties, some of which are quite rare indeed, e.g., Casal Figueira’s fascinating recovery of vital, a nearly extinct grape found only in the limestone hills north of Lisbon.
Red tasting $12
Brendan Tracey “Wah-Wah” Vin de France 2015
Brendan Tracey Pineau d’Aunis Vin de France 2015
Jean-Philippe Padie “Ciel Liquide” Vin de France 2015
White tasting $12
Schaefer-Frölich “Vulkangestein” Riesling Trocken Nahe 2015
Luis Rodriquez Vina de Martin “Os Pasas” Ribeiro 2014
Casal Figueira “Antonio” Lisboa 2015
|Every now and then, being a loner is a good thing. Case in point: the wines from Spain’s Canary Islands. The Canaries are separated by hundreds of miles of ocean from the Iberian Peninsula and is just over 60 miles off the coast of Africa. Here, due to the geographical and social isolation of a distant outpost of Spain, you will find a viticultural haven for antique grape varieties that have fallen out of favor on the mainland, but find their home on a volcanic terroir created eleven million years ago, by a volcanic eruption from the ocean floor. Tonight, we’re tasting three wines from the canaries, all made from grapes that are traditional there but are now scarce or non-existent elsewhere in the world.
Ignios Orígenes is a new effort from Borja Perez, a Tenerife fireman who purchased some small plots of old vine baboso and marmajuelo (more on these later) in 2011. This is a modest winery producing about 500 cases a year, and Perez’s day job as a fireman feels apposite, as his wines have a tangy, savory smoky quality that marks their origins from volcanic soil. Perhaps you will indulge me in a form of naïve empiricism and accept that volcanic soils can make wines taste smoky, and of course, the soils themselves neither smell or taste charred—yet the wines do indeed have a unique and attractive smokiness that is hard to deny. Perez farms organically, ages his wines in old barrels, and adds nothing, other than minimal sulfites at bottling. These are delightfully fragrant wines, mineral, sapid, and made from unique grapes that may be new to you but will soon become your new best friends. Marmajuelo is, as far as I know, only cultivated today on the Canaries, and Jancis Robinson, usually quite a reliable source for grape variety information, has only this to say about it: “One of the better varieties on the Canary Islands.” Alrighty. Listán negro is the most typical red grape planted in the Canaries, and is as transparent a vector for volcanic terroir as one could wish for. And finally, baboso negro, a grape that’s still planted a bit in the north of the Iberian Peninsula (under various names), but only expresses itself in its smoky, oddball wonderfulness only fully here on the Canaries.
Ignios Orígenes Marmajuelo Tenerife 2013
Ignios Orígenes Baboso Negro Tenerife 2013
Ignios Orígenes Listán Negro Tenerife 2013
|Join us this afternoon for a very fine tasting of Loire Valley wines. Why? For the simple reason that France’s Loire Valley is the epicenter for some of the most stimulating winemaking taking place in France today. You will not be bored, trust me, trust me. And as we do on Saturdays, we’re pouring two tastings: one of white Loire wines, all dry, mineral chenin blanc from two ascended masters of this grape variety, and the other a tasting of red Loire wines made of cabernet franc from its spiritual homeland, but also a traditional pinot noir + gamay blend that express a very particular sensibility on the sandy soils near the town of Blois. The chenin tasting is of wines grown on the diametrically opposed Loire terroirs of the supposedly superior white limestone soils to the east and centered around the town of Tour, and the supposedly inferior black soils to the west, centered around the town of Anger. And yet as you will surely see demonstrated today, the picture is increasingly made more complex, as brilliant growers like Anjou grower Patrick Badouin are showing profound expressions of chenin grown on ostensibly inferior soils. The red tasting consists of two cabernet franc wines from the grape’s homeland, one is whole cluster fermented, the other raised simply in neutral tank; and, another wine made from the pinot/gamay blend that is now traditional to the Cheverny region, made by a grower who came up in the evolving ecosystem of natural wine producers in the Loire, which includes such luminaries as Thierry Puzelat and René Mosse.
Loire Valley Chenin Blanc tasting $12
François Chidaine “Les Argiles” Vin de France 2015
François Chidaine “Les Bournais” Montlouis 2015
Patrick Badouin “Les Gats” Anjou 2012
Loire Valley Red tasting $12
Clos de Cordeliers “Tradition” Saumur-Champigny 2015
Du Mortier “Les Pins” Bourgueil 2015
Christian Venier “Les Haut de Madon” Cheverny 2015
|Tonight, taste the wines of Ryme Cellars with winemakers Ryan & Megan Glaab. When I first tasted the Ryme wines a few years ago, Ol’ Pappy Lou knew that these whippersnappers were on to something good: two young winemakers who happen to be married to one another, playing against each other’s sensibilities in public with dueling banjos of vermentino, one an orange, skin-contact wine, the other a wine made from grapes crushed and pressed off the skins. These are wines of yes, and no. Yes, to Italian grape varieties, representing both the past and a possible future world of viticulture in California; yes, to mouth-watering acidity; yes, to experimentation. No to industrial yeasts that are fed a diet of molasses tailings (wild fermentation only); no to temperature control, additives, and filtration. The Glaab’s continue to make their vermentinos but have also, ever-so-slowly, inexorably, and inescapably expanded their repertoire, to now include a fizzy, dry carignane, yet another skin-contact wine (ribolla gialla-based—that’s right, ribolla, the Friulian grape born to make orange wines), and a cabernet franc—we’re pouring these, and more, at tonight’s tasting.
Ryme Cellars “Crackling” sparkling carignane Mendocino 2013
Ryme Cellars “Alegria Vineyard” cabernet franc Russian River Valley $256
Ryme Cellars “Luna Matta Vineyard” aglianico Paso Robles 2012
Ryme Cellars “Vare Vineyard” ribolla gialla Napa Valley 2012 (orange wine)
Ryme Cellars “His” Las Brisas Vineyard Carneros vermentino 2014 (orange wine)
|This Thursday we are tasting three wines from the preeminent practitioner of cabernet franc: the legendary Clos Rougeard. The cellars at Rougeard are a mysterious and marvelous place. They are centuries old, dimly lit and cobwebby, with great swathes of trippy, varicolored mold growing on the walls. There are small, totemic statuettes secreted here and there, and then there is Nady Foucault himself and his impressive mustache, focused, genial and plain-spoken, presiding over a tiny tasting bar area. Over the years visitors have pressed coins into the semi-soft, damp limestone ceiling, where they stick, and if you look upwards you can make out vine roots growing through from the vineyard above. Foucault is something of a barrel nut and he happily points out the diverse cooperage techniques employed across his various barrels. Although the wines taste fresh and crunchy from the barrel, in the bottle these are clearly wines meant to age for many years, made in a traditional, Bordelaise idiom. We are tasting them young this Thursday and so you must use your imagination to travel ten years hence to see how the wines evolve. Their normale, Le Clos” (not on the bottle), sees older barrels; the Poyeaux slightly younger barrels, and finally the Bourg is aged in new wood. The Foucault family has farmed here for eight generations but last year, there was a rumor that Foucault had sold the property to a French telecom billionaire. I do not believe the deal is final and cannot speculate if these incredible unicorn wines will continue to be made in the future.
Clos Rougeard “Le Clos” 2012 ($90)
Clos Rougeard “Les Poyeux” 2012 ($125)
Clos Rougeard “Le Bourg” 2012 ($200)
The wines of Domaine Plageoles
6-8 PM no reservations needed
Gaillac is a modest provincial town in France’s southwest, not far from Toulouse. It’s a storied grape growing area where viticulture dates to the Phoenicians and that was, for centuries, systematically oppressed and isolated by the Bordelaise, who once controlled the Garonne river and hence access to a sea port. You can still see the effects of underdevelopment across the region, but there’s a silver lining in the isolation: the Gaillacoise continue to farm a plethora of splendid and rustic old grape varieties that are today only found there. Robert Plageoles is a conservator and savior of the old ways, and literally wrote the book regarding the viticultural politics of the area. We’re tasting a selection of the wines of his domain this Thursday, made from grapes such as mauzac, mauzac noir (entirely unrelated to mauzac) and braucol.
Domaine Plageoles Mauzac Nature Gaillac 2015
Domaine Plageoles Mauzac Noir Gaillac 2015
Domaine Plageoles “Bro’cool” Vin de France 2015
Loire Valley reds + Friday fancy!
6-8 PM no reservations needed
France’s Loire valley offers a seemingly endless range of wine styles. It’s also a hotbed of natural wine, and like Gaillac, a reservoir of curious old grape varieties. This Friday we’re tasting a good sampling of Loire red wines, ranging from a savory, light-as-a-feather grolleau, to a cranberry-sour cherry pineau d’aunis. Friday fancy bonus: we’re opening one bottle ($89) of Breton’s 1992 Bourgueil “Les Perrières,” ($16/glass), a serious, structured cabernet franc from older vines, but here with an appropriate amount of bottle age (22 years).
Chahut de Prodiges “Coup de Canon” Vin de France 2013
Du Mortier “Les Pins” Bourgueil 2015
Reynouard “K’ sa Tête” Vin de France 2015
Friday fancy: Breton Bourgueil 1992 ($16/glass)
Two different tastings: oddball whites + blau, blau, blau
3-7 PM no reservations needed
Two tastings this Saturday. Your choice: A tasting of oddball white wines, including a wine named after the Scottish national dish, haggis (it tastes nothing like haggis, I promise you), OR, a tasting of red wines made from the Austro-Hungarian grape blaufränkisch.
Oddball white tasting ($12)
Villet Savagnin Arbois 2012
Patrick Sullivan “Haggis” Wine of Australia
Jolie Laide Trousseau Gris Fanucchi Vineyard 2015
Blaufränkisch tasting ($12)
Solminer “Del Anda” Blaufränkisch Santa Ynez Valley 2014
Wetzer Kékfrankos Hungary 2015
Moric Blaufränkisch Burgenland 2014