Thursday, 10/16
$12 / 6-8 PM / no reservations needed

Los Angeles organic biodynamic natural funky natural wine
Tonight, we’re pouring three different red wines from France’s Jura region, and an optional, by-the-glass of the peculiar local institution: the infamous yellow wine of the Jura, vin jaune. The Jura is a funhouse mirror that reflects and refracts nearby Burgundy in specific and sometimes odd ways. Although Beaune is just 100 km from Arbois, a short trip by car on the autoroute, the cultural differences between these two towns is pronounced, a reflection of the middle ages when you might never travel 100 km from home in all your days. In Burgundy, pinot noir is king, and aging in a percentage of new oak barrels is not unheard of; pinot is indeed grown in the Jura, but it is there a minority grape, eclipsed by the local trousseau and hyperlocal poulsard grapes, both of which are rarely aged in any new oak at all. Barrel aging for chardonnay-based wines is common in Burgundy, but in the Jura, very long élevage (2+ years) in old barrels is common, with even longer aging for savagnin-based whites, the latter of which sometimes develop biological aging artifacts not unlike dry Sherry (but without any fortification). Truthfully, this analogy breaks down with wines made from poulsard, as there is no analog in Burgundy for this uniquely Jurassien grape, destined for perfumed, light-as-a-feather reds, sometimes stinky with reduction, sometimes not. We’re starting tonight with a poulsard from the village of Arbois, which we may or may not decant, but will most definitely serve slightly chilled. We’re also tasting more poulsard in a Côtes du Jura rouge, but alloyed with trousseau and pinot, and finally a very limited trousseau from a young biodynamic farmer. Special, by-the-glass: we’re opening one bottle of a very fine bottle of vin jaune ($85/btl, 10$/gl), aged under voile yeasts for six years in old barrels that are never topped up.

Domaine de la Pinte “Pinte Bien” Poulsard Arbois 2015
Domaine de la Pinte “La Capitaine” Arbois 2015
Domaine Morel “Les Trouillots” Trousseau C
ôtes du Jura 2016
By-the-glass ($10): Xavier Reverchon Vin Jaune Côtes du Jura 2004

Comments are closed.