|Does biodynamic farming work? I don’t know, but you can find out more about it tonight with Laura di Collobiano of Tenuta Valgiano who will be in the shop from 6-8 pouring three wines from her estate. Laura’s wines are bright, precise, and savory reds made mostly from sangiovese, grown on limestone in the northwest of Tuscany, a bit to the east of Pisa and not far from the town of Lucca. Laura follows the principles of biodynamics and all her wines are Demeter-certified, so expect some dialog tonight on leaf and root days, sensitive crystals, cow horns, dynamizers, cosmic energy, and the like. Why should we care how organically farmed vines are worked and harvested? Personally, I don’t really care if a vigneron harvests grapes in the nude, at midnight, wearing a tinfoil cap whilst chanting polyphonic tunes from antiquity. Bracketing the depredations of chemical-fueled, synthetic-charged viticulture and the reductionism and scientism of modern day technical farming, if nude midnight harvesting works for the practitioners of it, far out, man! It’s not our job as wine drinkers to adjudicate the truth claims made by practitioners of bio-d farming; we do not happily invite others to pass judgment on the automatisms in our own lives. As Emile Durkheim once observed, religion cannot be based on a lie.
Tenuta Valgiano “Palistorti” 2012